Author: Alberto Pearson

Cantiaci Hillfigures

I don’t know if this is of interest to anyone, but if you like checking out WWII sites and history (and fossils!) and can to get to Sheppey in Kent, I’d strongly advise you to seek this place out before it’s all finally destroyed by the sea.

Warden’s Bay (also known as Warden’s Point), is signposted as a left hand turning just before the lovely (ahem!) Leysdown (or ‘East End on Sea’ as it is known to locals) and so is pretty easy to find by car.

Having turned off, follow the road past shops and houses until you reach the point where the sea is to your right and the road starts to climb uphill as it bears round to the left, and you should come across a small dirt car park just in front of you (as the road continues to bear round to the left). Turn right into it (watch out for the poles on either side of the entry, making it deliberately narrow) and park.

Now this may not look like the most prepossessing area (because frankly it isn’t), but if you slap on your wellies and take a left turn down onto the beach and keep walking for about quarter of a mile (DO make sure the tide’s going out!!)you’ll come across the remains of a large concrete Sound mirror, lying in pieces (but still VERY recognisable) at the foot of the mud cliffs.

This is an area that’s also well known among fossil hunters because there are so many easily collected specimens to be found (which is the reason I first came here), all of them characterised by their mineralization by Iron Pyrites. Oddly enough, there is a massive density of trace fossil shells and wood concentrated at the base of the sound mirror and a happy afternoon can be spent just sitting here sifting through them. You can come away with bagloads once you get your ‘eye in’ (which is great, if like me, you have to bring kids along) .

Now for the really good bit. If you walk a little further along in the same direction and go just around the headland, in front of you emerges two very large and amazingly complete concrete bunkers. They must have only recently slipped down the cliff face, because they are currently still free of both vandalism and sea wear. I don’t know exactly what they are, maybe someone else will be able to fill in that bit, but last time I visited I took some pictures which hopefully co will be able to make available.

These huge buildings are quite stunning and well worth having a look at if you’re into this sort of stuff! (and if you’re not, you could always look for fossil shark teeth in the pebble margins on the London Clay at the base of the cliff…).

Henry Wills’ book “Pillboxes” lists any pillboxes at Warden Point as having been demolished, which might apply to the pair in the photographs however there was a coast defence battery at Warden Point, at OS Map Reference TR 020726. Built in the early years of the last century it was equipped with two 6in breech loading guns and two 12 pounder quick-firing guns. The battery was disarmed and abandoned in the 1920s.

Without a closer inspection it’s difficult to say whether these two buildings were associated with the battery or date from WW2. Certainly the larger of the two, in the top photograph, resembles observation posts seen associated with other batteries of this period and the smaller looks as though it could be a common type of searchlight position.

For some background there’s a really good piece by Fil about Sound Mirrors, which also has picture links including the Warden’s Bay one – although it’s not mentioned in the actual text:

Also the Defence of Britain website:

www.britarch.ac.uk/projects/dob/index.html

And for the fossilheads among you, a website dedicated to Sheppey’s specimens:

www.sheppeyfossils.com/

And another for Geology types (check here esp. for safety tips):

www.soton.ac.uk/~imw/

And Finally………
Before you leave: Make SURE you check the tide times and have a decent map. Then chuck some old gear, gloves (optional) and tough wellies into the car along with small plastic bags or tubs for any fossil finds. Take great care around the cliffs as they can be unstable, and NEVER attempt to climb them. Also take care out on the beach levels of London Clay wherever they are exposed, as it’s very sticky (and has been known to suck a wellie clean off – I always carry a pole to check for soft areas) and slippery. It WILL trap the unwary – so not a place to wander about alone, nor should very young children be allowed to do so. I’d also advise that you ALWAYS have a mobile phone with you, just in case.

Food (fish and chips) and loos are to be found by walking back along the beach to Leysdown (it’s an easy walk of less than a mile from where you parked, just follow your nose and aim towards the noise of the amusement arcades).

Carol Hunt

Colchester Roman Circus Open Day

Colchester Roman Circus Open Day
22nd January 2005

Archaeologists working on a housing development at Colchester in  Essex have unearthed what they believe to be the first Roman chariot-racing circus to be found in Britain. Members of Colchester Archaeological Trust were on hand to give an overview of the excavations which are taking place on garrison land south of Abbey Field. It is likely the remains will be back-filled to preserve them in situ, in order to retain the integrity of the walls and prevent any degradation. Most likely visible sightlines will be established will be established to indicate where the structure originally stood. A number of finds from the excavations and those of the adjacent Roman cemeteries were on display at the open day. Over 8,000 visitors attended!

Time Team crew were also on site filming for a “Special” to be screened around May 2005.

The discovery was made 400m south of the Roman Town, and is some 70m wide and at least 350m long. The stones and banks have gone, but a circus was the largest entertainment building in the Roman world and of a standard and well know design. The closest in size to the Colchester circus is at Segunto in Spain, which is 354 x 73.4m .

The Colchester circus was found in three excavations:

Area C1, 350 square metres north of Napier Road, at the junction with Flagstaff Road. Gravel metalled surface with wheel ruts (probably cart tracks), and a wall foundation, two large buttresses and a much slighter foundation (all stone robbed out) parallel and 5m to south. There were no partitions between the two walls, tile finds suggest coursing rather than a rood or heating system.

Area C2, 0.3ha on the other side of Napier Road, at the junction with Circular Road East. Mirror image of walls in area C1, with substantial buttresses on south side, 3-4 m apart, made of Greensand and septaria (nodules from local London Clay deposits); a square stone by a buttress may represent an arch. Nothing later than Roman has yet been found, so demolition an robbing may have been late Roman in date.

Area J1, c 1ha along Circular Road South. Evaluation in 2002 and 2004 identified two Roman wall lines 250m west of C2, on same alignment as paired walls there. Area excavation in October 2004 showed walls to be identical to those in C1 and C2, with buttresses 4m apart along entire 75m foundation length, and parallel shallow robbed out wall 5m to north; it seems certain they ran east to connect with C2 walls. Medieval pottery (possibly 11th century) was found in the robber trench. Roman finds include an iron stylus or writing equipment.

Why do they think these apparently elusive remains make such a strong case for a Roman circus?

First, the walls are clearly parts of a single construction, seen in the mirror image of C1 to J1/C2, with large exterior buttresses and parallel less substantial walls 5m inside. The use of Kent Greensand on each site is significant, since it is rare elsewhere in Roman Colchester. The remains seem to represent the main circus structure, the ramped seats (cavea), facing across an elongated staium-like space some 62.5m wide and 320m long, being the right length and proportions. Critically, the buttressed wall in J1 curves at its extreme west end, matching the apical stadium end found in all Roman Circuses.

An earth cavea rather than stone would be consistent with British amphitheatres and not least two of its known theatres. There are a few theatres in Gaul of the same type, and more modest circuses use an earth embankment for seating (eg in Luz, Portugal and Zafra, Spain).

Continental caveae are typically set on stone substructures, with a single inner wall, and short walls radiating outwards – usually ending in pilasters – to form vaulted bays supporting tiers of seats. At Colchester, whilst projections along the outer cavea may have been foundations for buttresses to help support the outward thrust of the cavea mound, the may also have supported blind arcading enhanced with pilasters; the circus would have looked much like continental versions despite being built differently.

Finds from the robber trenches indicate Romanise decorative architecture, tile coursing, opus signinum facing mortar (fine Roman concrete) and a piece each of column and incised marble facing (possibly Purbeck)

Artefacts found in Colchester before showing chariot races now acquire a new significance: some may have been souvenirs of actual events. A fine 2nd century pottery beaker shows four, four horse chariots (quadrigae). A glass cup, along with four quadrigae and rider, has a text celebrating Cresces victory over his three competitors. Another glass vessel shows a similar scene.

New finds continue the theme. A fine piece of horse furniture came from the inner robbed wall footing. A coin (a bronze Duponius of Caligula’s rein , A37-41) features a four-horse chariot and rider. Minted in Rome, this type is rare in Britain: was it kept as a reference to local racing? One of 37 silver coins found in a rare, important hoard from area J1 (c 150BC-AD117) also depicts a four-horse chariot: the hoard might have belonged to a citizen associated with the lucrative sport.

A substantial circus undoubtedly existed at Roman Colchester, where other monumental public buildings were already known. It was likely built in the late 1st or 2nd centuries, but that awaits confirmation. It makes sense that the coloniae, as the most Romanised inhabitants of British towns , would indulge in games – like cricket in the British Empire – that originally consisted of chariot racing (the Romans oldest and most popular sport) and boxing, with athletics and wrestling added in the 2nd century BC.

The juxtaposition of cemetery and circus throws light on the perception of life and death. The burial grounds would have been particularly animated with people travelling out of the town for the games, the games participants must have been acutely aware of the risks they were taking.

The circus was probably still a standing ruin when St Johns Abbey was built c AD1100, perhaps quarrying the remains. The precinct wall, which exhibits some odd bends in the south-west corner, may have been influenced by elements of the surviving circus.

This discovery highlights the degree to which we have still fully to understand the Roman urban legacy, and the role of monumental projects dedicated to games, even at towns like Colchester. It also raises further questions of the social, cultural and political impact of Britain’s first Roman colonia and the status of the province in the wider Roman world

Information taken from handouts provided by RPS at the event

The Colchester Archaeological Trust have covered this dig in great detail in their ‘The Colchester Archaeologist’ –  Issue 18 of 2005.

The first chariot racing track to be discovered in Britain – online article from The Colchester Archaeological Trust website

Roman Circus in Colchester – online webpage about the discovery and the open day

Sound Mirrors on the South Coast

Origins in the First World War

Primitive sound locators were used on the Western Front to locate artillery and enemy aircraft as early as 1914, however it was events away from the Western Front that provided the real impetus for developing means of detecting and tracking aircraft by sound. In May 1915 Zeppelin and Shutte-Lanz airships of the German Army and Navy started bombing targets around the Humber and Thames estuaries. London was attacked for the first time on the 31st of that month and by 1917 the airships were being replaced by twin engined Gotha and Giant aeroplanes. In total 300 tons of bombs were dropped on Britain during the First World War causing some 5,000 casualties, a third of which were fatalities. Some form of early warning system was badly needed, especially to counter the night raids.

Following encouraging experiments with a four foot diameter prototype built by a Professor Mather a 16′ mirror was cut into a chalk cliff face at Binbury Manor between Sittingbourne and Maidstone in July 1915. The mirror was shaped to form part of a sphere and a sound collector was mounted on a pivot at the focal point. The collector was usually a trumpet shaped cone connected to the ears of the listener with rubber tubes but experiments with microphones were under way before the end of the war. The listener would move the sound collector across the face of the mirror until he found the point where the sound was loudest. Bearings to the target could then be read from vertical and horizontal scales on the collector.

Professor Mather and his colleagues carried out a series of experiments with this mirror and produced a report which claimed that it could detect a Zeppelin at a range of twenty miles. The Army conducted it’s own experiments at Upavon which were so disappointing, something Professor Mather blamed on “the ineptness of Army personnel”, that it wanted to cancel all further work. Despite this it seems that several mirrors of 15′ diameter were constructed around the South East Coast, Thames Estuary and on the North East Coast. No information regarding precisely when these mirrors were built survives but it seems that the ones around Kent were probably built first. They are similar in construction to the first mirror at Binbury Manor, being cut out of a chalk cliff, but were lined with concrete which made a better sound reflective surface. Later mirrors, such as the ones on the Yorkshire coast, were free standing and made entirely of reinforced concrete.

Certainly the mirrors at Fan Bay, Dover (also identified as Langdon) and Joss Gap near North Foreland saw action in 1917 and 1918, the Fan Bay mirror detected an enemy raid at a range of 12-15 miles in October of 1917 and in 1918 both mirrors were able to detect aircraft heading for London several minutes before they were audible to the unaided ear. It’s worth noting that late in the war the mirrors reported to a central command centre which plotted the positions of raiders on a map and organised defensive measures.

Post-War Experiments

Despite the early scepticism shown by the Army the sound mirrors must have performed well enough to warrant further development. An experimental station to develop sound mirrors and other sound detection devices was established at Joss Gap before the end of the war. Work continued there up until 1922 when the research centre was moved to an area called The Roughs near Hythe. This land was already owned by the Army and was situated near to the flight path for commercial aircraft flying between London and Paris.
One problem the researchers had at Joss Gap was persuading the newly formed RAF to provide target aircraft. It was hoped that by siting the new centre at Hythe commercial aircraft could be tracked as they made their regular flights overhead.

A new 20′ mirror and several wooden huts for personnel and equipment had been constructed at Hythe by the end of 1922 and the mirror was operational by early 1923. The mirror was built as a solid slab of concrete set against the face of a cliff with a steel mast set in a concrete pedestal supporting the
sound collector. In September of 1923 the mirror detected an aircraft at a range of 12 miles. Further research was carried out with microphones at Hythe but stethoscope tubing remained the method of choice right up until the 1930s.

In 1925 Doctor W S Tucker was appointed Director of Acoustical Research and he was to play a major role in the development of sound mirrors and locators. In 1927 he put forward a proposal to build a chain of 20′ sound mirrors along the south coast. Only two were constructed, at Lydden Spout (Abbots Cliff) Dover, and at Denge on the Dungeness peninsula. Like the Hythe mirror they were cast as one solid slab of concrete but were freestanding and not cut into the face of a cliff. Both were completed in July 1928 at an estimated cost of œ650 each which included one Nissen hut and a fence around the entire site.

Even before these mirrors had been finished Dr Tucker and his team had finalised the design of a 30′ diameter mirror. Incorporating lessons learned from experiments with earlier mirrors they were angled upwards and of a more sophisticated construction than the previous slab designs. The listener, previously required to stand outside in all weathers, was now seated in a booth beneath the mirror. He rotated the sound collector horizontally with a hand wheel and vertically by way of foot pedals. The booth was largely underground and the upper section glazed with bullet proof glass. Two were built, one 200 yards west of the Acoustical Research Station at Hythe and another adjacent to the 20′ mirror at Denge. Both were completed by the spring of 1930.

Although these mirrors did not have a greater range than the 20′ versions they did provide greater accuracy, especially in the vertical plane.  

At the same time as the 30′ mirrors were being constructed work started on something even bigger. In Dr Tucker’s words “Whereas the 30′ mirrors are very efficient for (sound) waves up to 3′ or so…..the sounds we wish to deal with have waves of 15′ to 18’… This involves extension of the mirror surface to about ten times that hitherto employed.” As the mirror was intended to operate only at long ranges elevation angles would be small so the height of the mirror could be reduced. Even so the eventual design was 200′ in length and 26′ high with a curvature of 150′. It’s size precluded the use of a moveable sound collector so it was proposed to use a line of static listeners and microphones. The mirror was built at Denge, close to the
existing 20′ mirror and was completed by the middle of 1930. At first the microphones, 20 in all, were connected to apparatus housed in a hut but in 1933 a two storey listening chamber was built onto the rear of the mirror with a small window cut through so that the listeners on the forecourt could be observed.

Sound Mirrors in Action

From 1930 until 1935 the mirrors participated in the annual Air Defence of Great Britain exercises with the RAF. The 200′ mirror was the long range lookout, telling the operators of the 30′ and 20′ mirrors where to listen.  They in turn tracked the incoming aircraft and reported their readings back to a central control centre which calculated and plotted the raiders’ position. In 1932 the 200′ mirror detected aircraft at a range of 20 miles when the unaided ear could only hear them at 6.5 miles and on another occasion at 30 miles when an unaided listener could only hear them at 5.5 miles. Problems were experienced with high winds blowing across the face of the 200′ mirror and unwanted noise such as ships in the English Channel, however the story about the mirrors being jammed by a passing milk float appears to be untrue.

Canvas screens were erected either side of the 200′ mirror to reduce wind noise and to provide some shelter to the listeners on the mirror forecourt.

The main benefit of the exercises was the development of a centralised reporting and command structure for air defence which formed the basis of the system used in World War 2. In the 1935 exercise information was passed to a control centre set up in central London, Dr Tucker also identified the need for bearings to be transmitted from the mirrors automatically as transmitting them by ‘phone was too slow. It was also discovered that the job of listener was very tiring, duty periods of no more than an hour were recommended, and that great care had to be taken in selecting the right men.

The Thames Estuary Scheme and Finale

During the 1930s it was proposed to build a chain of 200′ and 30′ mirrors along the south coast from The Wash to Swanage. The first stage of this scheme was to be a system to protect the Thames Estuary consisting of two 200′ and eight 30′ mirrors. In mid-1935 approval was given to commence work on the construction of this system, sites were selected and a budget of œ10,000 was approved. One of Dr Tucker’s team, Percy Rothwell, had designed a 200′ mirror constructed from pre-fabricated blocks which would have been cheaper and quicker to build than the one at Denge but the end was already in sight. In February of that year Robert Watson-Watt had performed his first experiment with Radar at Daventry, with uncharacteristic speed a Radar research station had been established at Orford Ness by March and by July aircraft were being detected at ranges of 40 miles.

The Thames Estuary scheme was at first postponed, then cancelled altogether. In May 1936 the 15′ mirrors at Fan Bay, Joss Gap and Warden Point were abandoned, the 200′ mirror followed in 1937 and the remaining 30′ and 20′ mirrors in 1939 when the Acoustical Research Station was closed down. The mirrors at Denge were used for a series of experiments involving the detonation of small explosive charges at the focus of the mirrors but fortunately the War Department’s order that they were all to be blown up was never carried out.

What Remains Today

Of the World War 1 mirrors four still exist on the east coast at Sunderland, Marske, Boulby and Kilnsea. The two mirrors cut into the cliff face at Fan Bay, Dover were buried in the 1980s and are not on view although perhaps protected for future generations (site for a future TT dig perhaps?). Sadly the mirrors at Joss Gap and Warden Point have been destroyed by coastal erosion.

The 20′ mirror at Lydden Spout still survives although minus the pedestal for the sound collector. It stands on top of the cliff about half way between Dover and Folkestone, which would be about three miles from either. There was an Army rifle range nearby which was visible from the road, I don’t know if it’s still there though. A very approximate Ordnance Survey map reference would be TR 280385.

The 30′ and 20′ mirrors at Hythe still exist although the 20′ mirror has fallen face down on top of it’s pedestal. The site lies approximately one mile to the west of Hythe on rising ground to the north of the Royal Military Canal in an area known as The Roughs. An approximate OS map reference would be TR 141342.

The 20′, 30′ and 200′ mirrors still stand at Denge, gravel extraction has exposed the foundations and the listening chamber for the 200′ mirror had to be demolished because it was unsafe. Denge is about half way between New Romney and Dungeness Point and about two thirds of a mile west of the Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch Railway. The MoD had a dedicated branch line from this railway serving the mirrors the track bed of which is now a footpath. The Southern Railway line to New Romney crossed this line by means of a bridge which still survives although the line itself fell to Beeching’s Axe. A rough OS reference would be TR 070215. Alight from the RH&D Rly at the first halt after Greatstone and head inland towards Lydd. If you can find the point where the former Southern Railway passed over the RH&D branch line you’re very close.

A second 200′ mirror exists at Maghtab, Malta.

Sources and Further Reading

Echoes from the Sky by Richard N Scarth, published by Hythe Civic
Society, IBN 1 900101 30 0

London’s Burning by Constantine Fitzgibbon for details about German air
raids in WW1.

Surfing

If you want to order a copy of “Echoes from the Sky”:-

http://website.lineone.net/~rhsadmirals/

For photographs of the mirrors at Denge and Dover:-

http://castlekas.freeserve.co.uk/home.htm

Mainly about Radar but some mention of sound location:-

http://doramusic.com/Radar.htm

A possible future for the mirrors?:-

http://www.guardian.co.uk/Archive/Article/0,4273,4203067,00.html

Phil Hide, January 2002

THE FIVE PORTS OF DOVER

Symbolise now, in name only, the ancient right of the kings of England to impose their will upon the trade and shipping of the south-east of England where it lies closest to the coast of France. Winchelsea and Rye were later added.

First established in the 12th century, The Five Ports were required by the crown to furnish a certain number of ships for military service in return for which they were granted many privileges. It may be seen today that some of those privileges were verging on the piratical, however, in the times of almost constant conflict with France such were deemed not only acceptable, but necessary. Included were the rights to maintain their own courts and to keep the revenues obtained there-from. The seal, which confirmed Hastings as a Cinque Port (see Homepage) has impressed upon it the image of one of the cogs which were provided by the Ports for royal service.

The official residence of the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports, a title currently held by H.R.H. Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, is Walmer Castle (see Kent Castles). Prior to that, Dover was maintained as the official residence as evidenced by an entry in Harlian Mss. 433 [f.40] made during the brief and troubled reign of king Richard III. He conferred the Wardenship to “Therle of Arundelle the king hath confirmed unto him Thoffice of Constable of the Castelle of Dovere and the Wardenship of the V Ports during his Liff.”

The arms of the Cinque Ports, though individual, are best represented by those of Sandwich, i.e. Party per pale gules and azure, three demi-lions passant guardant or conjoined to the hulks of as many ships argent. These would seem to indicate royal authority – the three lions, and the ships of the Five Ports as in the hulks. Hastings is one, which bears similar though not identical coats of arms.

By the 15th century much of the influence of the Ports was slowly being lost as their harbours gradually silted up.

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